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Chichi-jima & Haha-jima

Chichi-jima has a population of 2,000 and is found 1,000 km south of Tokyo in the Pacific Ocean. Haha-jima is a further 50 km south and has a population of 450. Most animals and plants on these islands have undergone unique evolutionary processes, creating a distinctive environment for endemic species. Ogasawara Islands were registered in 2011 as a World Natural Heritage Site. Whale watching is popular.
KIN MUN "MRBROWN" LEE

KIN MUN "MRBROWN" LEE

mrbrown (LEE Kin Mun) is the Blogfather of Singapore, who has been writing about the funny side of Singapore life since 1997. He is an unrepentant satirist, and also a writer, comedian, photo essayist, traveler, technologist, songwriter, YouTuber and a podcaster. He has a deep love for Japan and his followers think it is his second home.

Summer

Day 1

"ALL ABOARD!"

"ALL ABOARD!"

The journey to Ogasawara (also known as the Bonin Islands) would take 24 hours by ferry from Tokyo. It was a 1,000km journey. There is no airport, no flight, no train, to this group of islands. Just one long 24-hour voyage.
Inside of my ferry

Inside of my ferry

When I saw the inside of my ferry, which was a fairly new one (the older vessel was decommissioned two months ago, fondly missed by the residents of the islands), I was somewhat relieved. The ferry was clean, bright and modern.
My bed

My bed

This is what my bed looks like on the ferry.
Views from the ship

Views from the ship

Some of these views are breathtaking. You haven't lived till you've seen sunrises and sunsets at sea.
The apple pie with ice-cream

The apple pie with ice-cream

My meals on board were surprisingly pleasant. I particularly enjoyed the apple pie with ice-cream.
Salted Caramel soft-serve

Salted Caramel soft-serve

Oh, that Salted Caramel soft-serve was also good. I could not resist having it a few times.

Read more on Day 1

Day 2

Welcome to Chichijima

Welcome to Chichijima

After 24 hours at sea, with next to no internet, you finally reach this island paradise. The islands are home to many rare and endangered plants and animals, many of which are endemic to the islands. If you love to surf, snorkel or dive, this is heaven. Hiking too, is a joy here.
Snorkeling heaven

Snorkeling heaven

I really loved the snorkeling here. There is so much to see underwater.
George the captain

George the captain

Little George was the captain of our boat. He spoke English and was a really colorful character. A native of the islands, he really knew his waters. I really enjoyed my time on his boat.
Under the water

Under the water

Under the water

Under the water

Read more on Day 2

Day 3

Hiking the sanctuary

Hiking the sanctuary

The two main islands are Chichijima (Father Island) and the quieter Hahajima (Mother Island). There are protected areas in the forests here to ensure the rare endemic plant and flora and birds can survive and thrive.
Our great guides

Our great guides

Our great guides, Ludy-san and Yoshino-san showed us how to prepare ourselves before entering the sanctuary. I liked this process a lot. It made me very conscious of how fragile an ecosystem can be.
Process before entering the protected forests

Process before entering the protected forests

You need to go through a process of cleaning your shoes with vinegar and sticky-brushing your clothing and bags, before entering the protected forests so that you don't accidentally bring unwanted non-native seeds and plants into the sanctuaries that may harm the wildlife in there.
Feel like Indiana Jones

Feel like Indiana Jones

I kinda felt like Indiana Jones here, hiking through the forests. Every few steps.
A little treasure

A little treasure

I would discover a little treasure: a special plant, an unusual tree, a rare bird.
The goats on the island

The goats on the island

In the course of hiking Chichijima, we spotted a goat. And then an entire herd of goats.
The feral goats

The feral goats

It is quite a sight to see goats just grazing by the coast. It is almost like they are also on an island vacation.
Endemic bird: The Red-Headed Wood Pigeon

Endemic bird: The Red-Headed Wood Pigeon

This red-headed wood pigeon is one of the almost extinct creatures endemic to these islands. We were very very lucky to encounter one and photograph it. My local guides tell me they see it only a handful of times in a year and they live and work here.
The USK Coffee

The USK Coffee

There is also time to enjoy the island life, chilling at absolutely laid back places like USK Coffee.
A cup of the Bonin island coffee

A cup of the Bonin island coffee

Owner, Yusuke-san, grows his own Bonin coffee in the farm that the converted Airstream coffee shop sits on.
Chilling with good coffee

Chilling with good coffee

He made many of the fixtures himself, and his coffee joint has a great vibe. If I could, I would spend all day just hanging out here, writing my next novel, drinking his coffee and eating the desserts his wife makes.

Read more on Day 3

Day 4

From the father island (Chichijima) to the mother island (Hahajima)

From the father island (Chichijima) to the mother island (Hahajima)

Hahajima (Mother Island) used to have about 2,000 inhabitants. It is about 500 now. Chichijima (Father Island) has about 2,000 people now, when it used to have a few times more than that, around 8,000 residents. After the war, and after America took the islands, the residents were evacuated to the mainland. When Japan got the islands back, not everyone returned.
The unused port

The unused port

You can see parts of Hahajima, especially in the north, where a settlement used to be. That once thriving village is gone now, covered in jungle, an unused port hinting at its former significance.
The main street of the northern village

The main street of the northern village

I know it is hard to imagine this,but this was the main street of the northern village in Hahajima. It was a thriving downtown area in the old days, when farmers on this island made a nice living supplying rice and other produce to the mainland.
Hahajima has its own charms

Hahajima has its own charms

Hahajima may be the quieter of the two main islands, but it has its own rustic charm. Chichijima is almost like New York City compared to Hahajima. I know, Chichijima already seems very laid back, but it is like a bustling downtown if you spend time on Hahajima.
Old coin phone

Old coin phone

I even found an old coin phone at the quaint Ross Museum. I could not resist taking a photo with it.
Craft Inn La Mere

Craft Inn La Mere

We stayed in a cozy little inn called Craft Inn La Mere on Hahajima, and my room had a staircase to a loft bed. At night, I ventured out to the beach and looked at the sunset.
Ferry service between Chichijima and Hahajima

Ferry service between Chichijima and Hahajima

There is a ferry service that runs between Chichijima and Hahajima, about 120 minutes journey. But to get back to Tokyo, you still have to depart from the larger ferry on Hahajima.
Meguro : Bonin Honeyeater of Hahajima

Meguro : Bonin Honeyeater of Hahajima

This sign on Hahajima tells you to be quiet so as not to frighten the rare Bonin Honeyeater bird, the Meguro (Apalopteron familiare). The Meguro is an endemic species that can only be found on Hahajima and every effort is made to protect the little fella. Including having a giant "Shhh" sign like this.
An old Japanese army searchlight base

An old Japanese army searchlight base

An old Japanese army searchlight base rests in a cave overlooking the coast of Hahajima. This relic is a reminder of the island's past as a military outpost.

Read more on Day 4

Day 5

It is never SAYONARA

It is never SAYONARA

When it is time to leave the islands, you get a rousing send off by the residents. It is a custom here to never say "goodbye". It's never Sayonara but Itterasshai (See you later) in the Ogasawara Islands.
The ferry runs only once a week

The ferry runs only once a week

The Ferry is a Big Deal on this island. It takes residents to the Tokyo, the mainland and beyond. It brings guests like us to the island. It is a source of food and supplies, of mail and packages. And because it does not come daily, but once a week (twice a week during peak season), every arrival and departure is precious and met with great anticipation.
Jumping into the waters

Jumping into the waters

Residents cheer and wave when the Ogasawara Maru ferry departs. Boats follow as far as they can and the occupants wave and some jump into the waters.
The sincere expression of friendship

The sincere expression of friendship

It is such a cheerful display of community. You don't get a sense that it is staged at all, but a sincere expression of friendship.
Missing the Ogasawara Islands and my new friends there

Missing the Ogasawara Islands and my new friends there

As I settled into my bed to begin my 24-hour voyage back to Tokyo, I felt a pang of longing in my heart. I realized that I was already missing the Ogasawara Islands and my new friends there.
Ittekimasu

Ittekimasu

Ittekimasu, Ogasawara Islands! Please wait for me, for I shall return.

Read more on Day 5

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