Oshima is the closest island to central Tokyo, accessible in just two hours by jet ferry from Takeshiba Pier. The largest of the Izu islands, it’s blessed with sea, mountains, and
nature, and filled with foods and drinks rooted in the islanders’ culture, including seafood, produce, and spirits.
In search of these island delights, the dietician Sayoko Tsukamoto took a solo trip to look for foods that can help keep both body and mind healthy.
Bekko, one of Oshima’s most famous local cuisines, is the name given to whitefish such as butterfish or parrotfish that is marinated in soy sauce and green chilies.
Ms. Tsukamoto stopped by a restaurant called Zakoya Kiyomaru to try bekko and other dishes made using local ingredients and fresh fish caught off the Oshima shores.
She ordered a Bekko-don set (fish over rice) for 1,400 yen. The restaurant’s staff told her, “We use green chilies instead of wasabi here on Oshima,” which heightened her curiosity about this distinctive island delicacy. Taking a generous bite of the Bekko-don, she remarked with a smile, “What a fluffy texture! The whitefish gives it a springier feel than marinated redfish like katsuo (bonito) and maguro (tuna.) The spicy chilies give it an aftertaste that’s indulgent and delicious.” She also enjoyed Oshima’s famous mekkari-ni (braised sea snail) and tatakiage (fried minced fish.) The whole experience left her excited for her next island dining excursion.
Each restaurant and family has its own way of marinating fish for bekko. “I loved the spiciness of the chilies and the sweetness of the soy sauce and mirin,” she said. “It goes great with rice!”
The Zako Teishoku set (1,750 yen) with ashitaba leaves dressed in sesame sauce is also popular. It offers freshly-caught fish of the day, including kuromutsu (Japanese blue fish,) medai (Blue nose) and kasago (marbled rockfish.)
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Zakoya Kiyomaru
Address: 262-26 Motomachi Manose, Oshima-machi, Tokyo
Tel: 04992-2-1414
Hours: lunch 11:30-13:30, dinner 17:30-20:00
Closed: Thursdays
Dairy farming is so prevalent in Oshima that the island was once called “Holstein Island.” Oshima Milk is still produced today, and the milk from the cows raised among the island’s salty ocean breezes and green grass is celebrated for its full and lightly-sweet flavor. That’s why we headed to Island Ice Cream Shop Toriton, which serves ice cream made with Oshima Milk.
The shop’s showcase is lined with 30 flavors ranging from local ingredients such as ashitaba leaves and shimanori seaweed to mint chocolate and matcha (green tea) made to delight the island’s children. Ms. Tsukamoto chose chestnut and matcha, each for 250 yen. “The ice cream it’s made with is so rich!” she commented. “Both the chestnut and the matcha have the perfect balance of ingredients.” The owner Tsutomu Asanuma commented, “I opened this ice cream shop because I wanted to see children smile. So I want to create the flavors they want to eat. It’s not a huge dream, but I hope I can make it come true with ice cream.” Ms. Tsukamoto was delighted to hear this. Feeling the warmth of his words, one cannot help but gain greater affection for not only the island’s foods, but the island itself.
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Island Ice Cream Shop Toriton
Address: 1-10-9 Motomachi, Oshima-machi, Tokyo
Tel: 04992-7-5425
Hours: 11:00-18:00; weekends and holidays 10:00-18:00
Closed: Wednesdays
(Open every day during summer months)
Shochu was traditionally made on the Izu islands for many years. That is also true of Oshima, but today only one distillery remains: Taniguchi Shuzo. Tastings of this island shochu are possible for a fee at Tsubaki Castle, the showroom designed by architectural historian Terunobu Fujimori.
“I’m aiming for a robust flavor,” said Eikyu Taniguchi, the third-generation owner. He makes the shochu by himself, using barley and sweet potatoes. Ms. Tsukamoto was entranced by Mr. Taniguchi’s island shochu and wanted to try it right away. She took one sip of the Gojinka Tenjo, which Taniguchi recommends as a favorite of women, and smiled, calling it “fruity and easy to drink!” She also sampled the showroom exclusive Gojinka Tsubaki-jo and the 12-year Gojinka Cho-oyajigoroshi. “With their aroma, sweetness, and texture, every sip makes me appreciate the depth of shochu,” she said.
Tsubaki Castle’s dirt-piled roof planted with grass and camellia gives it a unique exterior. It was rebuilt in 2000.
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Taniguchi Shuzo
Address: 167 Wada, Nomashi, Oshima-machi, Tokyo
Tel: 04992-2-1726
Purchases available through website (http://www.gojinka.co.jp).
Tastings available at the Tsubaki Castle showroom for a fee (9:00-16:00).
Closed: Sundays (Also closed some Saturdays and holidays)
Reservations by phone required
