Hachijojima
Forget the Stress of the City on One of Tokyo’s Outer Island Paradises

A short, 10-minute walk along a hilly path from the trailhead brought us to Uramigataki Waterfall, hidden among green trees and mossy rocks. The area is perfect for the beloved Japanese custom of “shinrinyoku” (forest bathing), during which people slow down and bask in the serene atmosphere of nature.
We felt as though we were reconnecting with Mother Earth as we listened to the gentle rushing of the water and the swaying of the trees amongst what was otherwise silence.

When the shrine was established is unclear, but it is said that the Hachijojima locals are descended from a god who was born from Kotoshironushi-no-Mikoto and one of his wives who crossed to Hachijojima. Though we didn't know when the shrine was built, we could tell by the moss on the magnificent stone torii gate that it had been standing there for a while. Time seemed to stand still here, and we found ourselves unmoving, just enjoying the ineffable atmosphere.

We could not visit a southern Tokyo island without witnessing a fiery sunset, so we headed to the jagged Nanbara Coast of Permian Rocks to watch the sun set the sky ablaze as it sunk over the horizon. The rocky coast offers front-row seats to this natural marvel, creating a stunning panorama for the perfect snapshot.

I felt as though I was igniting my adventurous spirit as I fought the wind to make my way across the black volcanic rocks towards the edge of the water. The sun's rays poured through the clouds on the way down, creating golden beams that made the surface of the water sparkle and illuminated the sprays made by the waves as they crashed upon the rocks. The sun turned red as it neared the horizon, painting the sky vibrant shades of yellow, orange, and pink.

Near Aigae Port is Foot Bath Kirameki which is, true to the name, a foot bath where visitors can soak their feet in hot spring water while gazing out upon the Hachijojima coast. After doing plenty of moving and walking around the island, my feet were ready for some pampering. I eagerly dipped them into the clear, steaming waters and let the fatigue wash away as I felt my muscles relax. I could have sat there for hours, watching and listening to the waves gently rolling out in the sea.

For dinner, we headed to Ryozanpaku, which is one of the most popular “izakaya” pubs on the island. It was opened in 1979 and is now run by the second-generation owner who was more than happy to explain the restaurant's beloved dishes to us. The extensive menu (with names of the dishes also written in English) includes numerous local Hachijojima specialties that are made with locally-produced ingredients, and we were raring to try flavors one would be pressed to find elsewhere.

One local specialty we were especially excited to try was “shimazushi,” a local Hachijojima variation of sushi that features marinated raw fish atop a bed of rice with a smear of Japanese “karashi” mustard for extra flavor. We were instructed to eat the shimazushi as-is, and sure enough, it did not need any extra seasoning, as the sweet marinade of the fish was cut by the faint spiciness of the karashi.

Ryozanpaku prepares its fish dishes depending on how bountiful the fish catches are in Hachijojima, and we were lucky enough to enjoy a wonderful selection of various types of Japanese sea bream, all of which offered slightly different flavor profiles that we thoroughly enjoyed comparing as both shimazushi and sashimi. Ryozanpaku also has several dishes that feature ashitaba, a perennial plant that grows in abundance in Hachijojima and plays a huge part in the island’s local cuisine, appearing in many different forms. Here, we tried crunchy ashitaba tempura which had a slightly bitter, vegetal flavor with a light, savory batter, and ashitaba beer, which had the taste and carbonation of a regular beer, but also included a pleasant grassy taste emphasized by the green, slightly pulpy texture.

Aigae Suisan is a seafood restaurant that specializes in a local delicacy called “kusaya,” which is fish that has been fermented in a salty brine. Kusaya has a history that dates back to the Edo period (1603 - 1867), and although still enjoyed by many across the Tokyo outer islands, can shock many when they first encounter it.

Kusaya has an incredibly pungent smell that can be difficult for many noses to handle at first, but its taste pairs wonderfully with Japanese sake such as shochu, making it a beloved drinking snack among the locals. Being aware of kusaya's reputation, we were skeptical that international tourists did in fact order and enjoy kusaya, but the proprietor brightly informed us that while many ordered it as a culinary bucket list item and unique travel experience, there were also plenty of people who were surprised to find that they actually enjoyed eating it.

As we wanted to experience everything Hachijojima had to offer, we of course had to order a plate to try, and can attest that the smell certainly lived up to its reputation. The proprietor’s earlier words encouraged us, and we did end up reveling in the unique culinary experience, finding that the taste was more mellow than the smell. It is quite difficult to describe the sensation of eating authentic kusaya, so if this has intrigued you and you are up for the challenge, be sure to add it to your Hachijojima travel itinerary as well!

Yet again adding to the list of ashitaba variations, we visited the popular local noodle restaurant Ikkyuan to fill our bellies with springy noodles infused with ashitaba. Acting as mainly a one-man operation for around forty years, Ikkyuan has gained a following for its delectable ashitaba udon.

During our active trip full of Hachijojima sightseeing, we were eagerly looking forward to our barbecue lunch at Otoko Meshi Shokudo, a restaurant that is operated with Dairyu Farm, a shiitake mushroom producer on the island. Dairyu Farm grows a variety of shiitake mushrooms called “Umikaze shiitake” that are only available on Hachijojima. Not only did we get to feast on these delicious shiitake, but we actually got to harvest some ourselves and get a glimpse into mushroom farming!

After we collected our generous portion of mushrooms, we were ready to taste these beloved Umikaze shiitake for ourselves and indulge in a barbecue feast. What appeared before us was a massive tray filled to the brim with various kinds of meat and vegetables ready to be added to the grill, and after listening to the owner’s instructions, we happily began placing the hearty bounty onto the racks. Barbecuing the ingredients brought out their delicious innate flavors, and we had a grand time deciding what should be grilled next as we continued to scarf down our feast. Part of the barbecue included the shiitake that we had just harvested, and we were amazed at how succulent they were. They indeed had a light flavor that was delicately sweet yet had a deep umami, and we could not stop commenting on how savory they were between bites.

Hidden behind Hachijojima’s characteristic round-stone walls lining the streets and lush green foliage is Nakanogo, a cafe located in a traditional “kominka” house that emanates a feeling of nostalgia. The 167-year-old house has been passed down through generations of the cafe owner’s family, and while it now hosts the cafe, the architecture largely remains unchanged, offering a glimpse into the traditional life of Hachijojima. Within the wooden walls are several floor tables surrounded by cushions and “shoji” sliding doors that open to the greenery outside. During the winter months, a sunken hearth opens in the middle of the cafe, warming the space while emitting relaxing crackling sounds. The cafe is fairly small, so it is recommended to only visit with a group of four people of less.

Hachijojima is now also famous for its dairy products thanks to the local Yuyu Ranch that sits adjacent to Lido Park Hotel. Its cows are free ranged, resulting in rich milk that is used to make all sorts of mouthwatering dairy products. Yuyu Ranch provides delicious dairy to establishments all over the island, and a collection of tantalizing desserts made with milk from the ranch’s Jersey cows can be found at the stylish Jersey Cafe.

A short drive along a tiny road off one of the main streets of Hachijojima brought us to a small building with bright red siding that created a vibrant contrast with the surrounding greenery. Although the sign on the front of the building read “mama’s kitchen,” this was indeed the location of our scrumptious curry lunch, prepared by a chef who won an award on a Japanese television show for his curry.

"Kihachijo" is a traditional woven fabric from Hachijojima that is made with silk threads that have been dyed by local plants, with traditional colors including yellow, reddish brown, and black. Although the history of Kihachijo can be traced back to the Heian period (797 - 1185), it gained popularity in mainland Japan during the Edo period and became a highly-regarded fabric.

We met Yukiko Tamai, our instructor and the owner of Yuko Hachijo Island Therapy, which offers yoga classes and aromatherapy courses. Tamai, who has been practicing yoga for almost thirty years and received her teacher’s license in 2014, explained that the original meaning of the word “yoga” was “to connect,” referencing the connection between big and small (the world and humans respectively). She offers yoga classes at the coast and in the forest, each begetting different effects that refresh the mind and body.

Hachijo Fuji is a volcano on Hachijojima that stands 854 meters tall, making it the tallest point in the Izu Islands. There is a hiking trail leading up and circling the mountain that offers panoramic views of Hachijojima and the Pacific Ocean on clear days, and hikers can walk through knee-high grass while taking in the surrounding sights.

During our stay on Hachijojima, we decided to spoil ourselves by staying at the Lido Park Resort Hachijojima, one of the leading lodgings on the island. This spacious hotel hosts Western-style rooms, a vast restaurant with both breakfast and dinner options, indoor and outdoor public baths with a playroom, and more facilities to ensure that you have everything you need to relax and unwind.

Mingei Aki is one of Hachijojima’s leading and largest souvenir stores, located in a traditional 100-year-old house and operating for around fifty years. Whether it is for yourself or a loved one, you will be spoilt for choice walking among the shelves packed to the brim with all kinds of souvenirs, from treats and food products to traditional crafts.