3-Day Exploration of Kozushima
Adventure tourism, fresh cuisine, and culture

Our second day in Kozushima started with some shopping at Ishikura Stone Warehouse. This souvenir shop is located in the village’s center and sells a variety of locally made goods, such as cups, bags, figurines, socks, keychains, and earrings. While these colorful items make for excellent souvenirs, the facility’s most uniquely Kozushima offering is its obsidian products.

Obsidian is a type of igneous rock formed when lava cools quickly. Given its volcanic activity in the past, Kozushima is rich in obsidian, and you can see striations of this black rock interwoven into some of the island’s cliff sides. Obsidian is regarded as a power stone that increases concentration, helps improve academic performance, wards off evil spirits, and offers protection. At Ishikura, you can purchase Kozushima-formed obsidian wares, including stones, chopstick holders, and jewelry.

True to its “Stone Warehouse” name, the facility's exterior and interior are primarily composed of large gray bricks. We first perused the quirky collection of miscellaneous products, before turning our attention to the obsidian items.

The stone’s midnight rich color interspersed with white speckles from slight crystallization reminded me of the night sky—which is highly appropriate on Kozushima. So, after much contemplation, I decided to purchase a small piece of obsidian to bring a piece of Kozushima home with me.

Thus far, we had primarily dined on the blessings of the sea. So for lunch, we decided to stop by `AILANA—a Hawaiian-themed burger joint!

`AILANA, also situated in Kozushima Village, is a short six-minute walk from Ishikura Stone Warehouse. The restaurant’s owner used to live in Hawaii and now brings Hawaiian vibes and American soul food to Kozushima through his eatery’s island decor and authentic burger menu. Here, you can enjoy classic hamburgers and cheeseburgers with 100% grass-fed beef topped with lettuce, onions, and ketchup. The `AILANA double cheeseburger—complete with a thick slice of bacon and two patties—is perfect if you are feeling extra hungry. Aside from its hamburgers, `AILANA also sells flavorful chicken sandwiches and refreshing passion fruit, mango, and guava juices.

As the dining area is small with only three tables—a one-seater, five-seater, and six-seater—please be mindful that it may be full during lunchtime. If that is the case, you can always order takeout!

Since we had a long day ahead, I ordered the `AILANA burger with a side of fries and mango juice. While the kitchen prepared my order, I relaxed in a seat by a window and watched the ocean as Hawaiian melodies played overhead—simultaneously enjoying two islands at once. Soon, intoxicating aromas scented the air, and my meal was ready. The sizable burger was juicy and full of savory flavors, which balanced wonderfully with the silky-textured and not too sweet mango juice.

With maximum energy from the hearty burgers, we headed to our next stop—Mt. Tenjo.

Mt. Tenjo, situated roughly at the island’s heart, is about 572 meters above sea level and has long been worshiped by islanders. The mountain has a trapezoid-esque shape and its flat summit is home to a diverse range of geological features, such as deserts and ponds.

The roundtrip trek, plus exploration time, generally takes between four to five hours. So, be sure to plan accordingly, and leave yourself plenty of daylight. Also, please bring your own water to stay hydrated as there are no vending machines on the mountain. Mt. Tenjo has two trekking paths—Shiroshima and Kuroshima. Locals commonly follow Kuroshima to the summit and then take Shiroshima during their descent. If you travel by car and park near Kuroshima’s trailhead, please note that Shiroshima’s trailhead is about a 20-minute walk away.

With the sun shining brightly, we began our ascent on the Kuroshima trekking path. The trail was primarily surrounded by short plantlife and thus, offered unobstructed panoramas of Kozushima and the glittering sea beyond.

Given the rather steep ascension, we were happy to stop periodically to enjoy the expansive views and refresh in the cool mountain breeze.

Once we reached the summit, we visited a number of the mountain’s iconic sights. Our first stop was Sendaiike Pond. This geological depression formed in one of Mt. Tenjo’s craters and fills with rainwater, resulting in a natural pond. Although the pond was partially dry when we visited, it still buzzed with dragonflies and offered lovely views of the sloping landscape.

Next, we visited Omotesabuku, one of the mountain’s desert areas. The rocky scenery and white sand completely contrasted Sendaiike’s lush environment—making us feel like we had entered another world. The barren landscape encircled by foliage-clad hills made for mesmerizing visuals.

Then, we had to stop by the lookout point selected as one of the “New 100 Landscapes of Tokyo.” From this vantage point, we were granted views of Mt. Kushigamine’s peak with Tokyo’s Oshima, Toshima, Niijima, Shikinejima, and Miyakejima in the distance!

We also visited Fudoike Pond, a heart-shaped pond with a small shrine at its center, and Tenku-no-oka (Hill in the Sky), a lookout point with 360° views.

At last, we followed the Shiroshima trekking path back to its corresponding trailhead. Overall, the journey’s physicality and captivating visuals made for an enriching adventure where, for the most part, our only companions were our footsteps and the rustling leaves.

After immersing ourselves in the splendor of Kozushima’s nature, it was time for dinner at Kozushima Ryugu. This refined restaurant is a true celebration of Kozushima’s gastronomy and offers seafood dishes crafted with locally-caught fish. The extensive menu includes sushi and sashimi, as well as boiled and fried fish. One of the restaurant’s recommendations is its red squid sashimi (赤いか刺身), which is made from squid caught that very day! The restaurant also sells a variety of appetizers, meat options, rice dishes, and pasta. For a full dining experience, you can also order one of the restaurant’s course meals, which typically include assorted appetizers, sashimi, a fish dish, salad, fried fish, and more. The restaurant offers a substantial drink menu of alcohol and soft drinks to pair with your meal.

Upon entering the eatery, I was immediately enamored by the dining area’s chic atmosphere. Since we had a reservation, our dinner—the red snapper course—was nearly ready.

To say that this meal was a masterpiece would be an understatement. Each dish allowed the fresh ingredients to shine and displayed both simple elegance and creativity in their preparations. We especially enjoyed the red snapper rice served in an earthen pot. The fish’s slightly sweet taste melded exquisitely with the fluffy rice. The variety of textures, flavors, and temperatures made the meal a feast for the eyes and stomach.

Please note that reservations are highly recommended.

For the past two days we had whole-heartedly explored Kozushima’s daytime beauty. Now, it was time to witness one of the island’s most precious natural assets—its starry night sky.

In 2020, the International Dark-Sky Association designated Kozushima as a Dark Sky Island for its outstanding efforts in preserving the nocturnal environment. For our expedition, we booked a guide through Full Earth—a company that aims to intimately connect visitors with nature and promote eco-friendly mindsets. With their breadth of knowledge, passion, and insight into the best stargazing spots, local guides are the best way to enhance your experience of Kozushima’s starry sky.

Our friendly guide picked us up at 7:45pm directly from Kozushima Ryugu and drove us to Kozushima’s Heliport, one of the island’s best stargazing spots. Given the area’s purpose as a heliport, it has no visual obstructions, and luckily for us, it was a crystal clear night.

Once we exited the car and turned off all artificial lights, the night sky bloomed with life. To avoid straining our necks, we laid down on the concrete ground and watched the open skies. The inky blackness glowed with hundreds of pinpricks of light and encompassed the Milky Way’s ethereal trail, which we could see with our naked eye. On occasion, shooting stars would grace the scenery—always eliciting a thrill of excitement. With his impressive laser pointer, our guide showed us constellations, as well as other astronomical wonders. Later, he took out his full-scale astronomical telescope and positioned it so we could see Jupiter and Saturn. Looking at the planets in real time—not in a movie or on a page in a book—was a surreal experience. To put it simply, the night sky was hypnotizing, and I found myself quickly mourning the view as our tour came to an end.

There is something so indescribably beautiful about the stars, and in those moments of stargazing, my typically busy mind was filled solely with thoughts of wonderment.

Please note that during autumn and winter Kozushima can get cold and windy at night, so please dress appropriately.

After pleasant dreams of mountain vistas and starry skies, we started our final morning at Akasaki Promenade, located on the island’s northern tip. This popular tourist attraction features a network of wooden walkways built upon rocky cliffs that overlook transparent, turquoise waters.

The natural cove is a picturesque spot for swimming and snorkeling with fun jumping stands and has useful amenities, such as outdoor showers (only for rinsing) and public bathrooms. However, even in the colder months, the promenade serves as a stunning vantage point to admire Kozushima’s rugged coastline and vivid water. Typically, the ocean is most vibrant in the afternoon when the sun shines brightly overhead.

Although the ocean water was warm even in the early morning, we decided to bypass swimming and simply explored the area. The complex’s close proximity to the ocean and jagged shoreline allowed us to witness up close visuals of what we had only seen from afar. The pathways followed various routes along the cliffs and thus, led to a number of unique perspectives. The area even had multiple seating areas where we could relax and enjoy the alluring scenery.

Next, we moved even closer to the ocean with a visit to Maehama Beach, situated directly next to Kozushima Village and about a 10-minute drive from Akasaki Promenade. This area is a vacationer’s paradise, complete with 800 meters of white sand, blue waters, and surrounding vegetation-adorned cliffs. During summer, the beach is a popular place for seaside activities and watersports.

With the ocean’s breeze and waves’ symphonies, we enjoyed a leisure stroll along the shore. As I watched the tide, I felt my mind relax in tandem with its rhythmic dance.

Monoimina-no-mikoto Shrine is located a short two-minute drive or 10-minute walk from Maehama Beach and is one of three shrines on the island. The shrine truly captures Kozushima’s spiritual essence and matches its reputation as “the island where the gods gather.”

This shrine is designated as Shiki-nai Myojin Taisha, which refers to shrines listed on the Engi-shiki Jinmyocho (a 10th century list of important shrines) that enshrine Myojin, which are powerful gods believed to possess miraculous abilities since ancient times. In Tokyo, there are only two Shiki-nai Myojin Taisha—Monoimina-no-mikoto Shrine and Awa-no-mikoto Shrine, also located in Kozushima.

Once we entered the complex, I was immediately drawn in by its mystical allure. The quiet grounds, interspersed with traditional structures, powerful statues, lush nature, and stone walkways, created an inviting and tranquil atmosphere. Given the abundant foliage, much of the area was decorated in leaf-patterned sunlight.

From the main shrine area, we followed a tree-sheltered pathway and then a descending staircase past two grand torii (gate) where we admired views of nearby Maehama Beach. Aside from its aesthetic appeal, the shrine was a wonderful way to connect with Kozushima’s spiritual side.

To end our Kozushima adventure, we traveled to Arima Observatory for one last view of the grand scenery. Arima Observatory is located on the island’s southwestern coast and is about a 10-minute drive from Monoimina-no-mikoto Shrine.

This observation point is best recognized for its massive white cross—called Julia’s Cross—which is a memorial to Korean Christian, Julia Ota, who after being exiled to the island for her faith, had a positive impact on Kozushima’s people through her charitable acts. The lookout point itself affords views of Kozushima Village, Kozushima Port, and Maehama Beach nestled in the island’s mountainous landscape. On exceptionally clear days, you can even see Mt. Fuji! At night, the area is also a popular stargazing spot.

Blessed with blue skies and minimal clouds, the elevated view perfectly encapsulated our Kozushima experience with its composition of lush mountains, radiant water, and touch of urbanity. Julia’s Cross’ white facade and commanding presence also stood as a powerful visual. Here, I took a moment to immerse all my senses in the landscape one last time.

As recounted in detail above, Kozushima is celebrated for its natural beauty, ocean views, hiking trails, starry skies, and locally-sourced cuisine, making it a must-visit for adventurers looking to experience a less trodden side of Tokyo.

Given its literal distance from the hecticness of modern life, the island’s natural wonders and relaxed atmosphere facilitated mind-calming effects, and we left feeling both physically and mentally refreshed.

From Takeshiba Pier in Minato City, you can take a high-speed jet ferry or large passenger ferry to Kozushima Port. Please note that the frequency of the ships’ departures vary depending on the time of year, so be sure to review the ferries’ service periods before planning your trip. In terms of travel times, the high-speed jet ferry takes about four hours and the large passenger ferry takes approximately 12 hours. Both trips afford expansive ocean vistas and views of Tokyo’s islands in passing.

Tokai Kisen Co., Ltd. ferry information: https://www.tokaikisen.co.jp/en/
Reservation URL: https://tokyoislands.jp

New Central Airservice operates three flights a day between Chofu Airport in western Tokyo and Kozushima Airport. The flight time is about 45 minutes, and the scenic flight boasts hawk-eye views of Tokyo metropolis and many of its islands.

New Central Airservice: https://www.central-air.co.jp/en
Reservation URL: https://www.central-air.co.jp/reservation/ibe/ibe/booking