The island viewed from a helicopter - and yes, all you can see is a "cliff". No sandy beach - it even resembles a mountain floating in the sea. Thinking of the nothingness this island seemed to convey made me a little nervous.

You won't find any taxis here - walking is the best way to navigate streets as narrow as these. So a stroll is just what I did and what I saw did indeed seem island-like. Chock-full of slopes and stairs - birdsong all around. And no sandy beach also means the ocean itself is virtually noiseless.

The first villager discovered - this old lady, busy picking camellia seeds (and claimed to be 91 years old). Actually Toshima is full of camellia farmers and since making and selling camellia oil is their livelihood, if you pick camellia seeds and bring them some, they may well give you some reward.

When I went to the pier to view the sunset, someone fishing alerted me to a must-go sunset spot, commenting "it looks more beautiful from over there". After I came to the pier, I met residents left, right and center and it had me wondering if the pier is their go-to place. The view was indescribable.

Don't look yet, don't look yet, don't look ... wow ... my tears fell. Me, the tired female office worker, easily moved. Waves in deep colors, like an oil painting and eternal unending horizontal lines. Amid the backdrop of calm, deep and undulating waves, I devoted myself single-mindedly and focused on the scenery until the sun set.

Looks delicious!!! All this food is fresh from the island. I did indeed hear the names of the dishes, but my stomach was grumbling too much for me to remember them all. The sashimi was girella, caught on the day! The fresh-caught fish tasted elastic, subtle and delicious.

Young men from the village office also came to Teradaya and we all enjoyed each other's company. The young man from the village office who showed me the sunset spot gave me some fish and sent me off to the inn. His name is S and he apparently moved from Tokyo to Toshima three years ago. "Having nothing here means I tend to ponder things a lot by myself and I enjoy it. How will the waves be tomorrow? And the wind? Why not go fishing for my next meal? Funnily enough, I never get tired of considering things like this."

Chatting over sake at Kozushima. While I was listening carefully to their conversation, it was 11pm before we knew it. So I went to bed, with my interest in Toshima awakened! Getting plenty of sleep is another way to enjoy an island!

While I was wondering what to do, S, whom I got to know the day before and working at the village office, gave me an offer I couldn't refuse - "Shall I show you Mt. Miyatsuka?!"

Our first stop was Minamigayama-enchi, which included the wide field its name suggested as well as breathtaking scenery! The nearest land is a desert island called Udoneshima, while Niijima and Kozujima come into view, in turn. As you gaze at the islands; floating alone in the sea, it feels strange to think people actually live there. Toshima would be equally small if viewed from afar...

We found ourselves at the starting point of the trail up Mt. Miyatsuka! The trail was gentle, but I was far from used to mountain climbing (not being an exercise lover) and slightly nervous. Well, I thought I should be fine - having been told it would take a half-hour or so - but even so, it's a bit of a killer mountain path!!!

I arrived at the observatory within a stone's throw of the summit and went up... to find this stunning view! Blue! Beautiful!! With Mt. Fuji looming up on the left rear side.

People only inhabit the area in which I can see houses. This island is so small, I can see all of it at once. But being a tiny world of nothingness is what makes the island so appealing. I say nothing - there was actually a huge amount of wind - but I still feel great!

Well, the island is really full of camellias. So cute, I want to say LIKE x 1000 and charging up my power of femininity. A must-visit for Instagram addicts who are keen to showcase feminine pictures.

I was starving when back and it was just as delicious as I thought. Seriously. And after we'd had a bite, S, his wife and I took me out to see the starry sky!

As I gazed up... 2016 tears fell. Too many stars! An explosive amount! This nothing island has a ton of stars! I can even see the Milky Way! The Milky Way - clearly - with my own eyes! Isn't the Milky Way solely for Orihime and Hikoboshi to enjoy? Or so I thought... Amen, God, great. Unbelievably and impossibly beautiful.

The tie-up with Orion... just thrills me. Overwhelmingly beautiful. We came back, chatted over drinks for a while with everyone then saw the night draw in.

The island has slopes or stairs only, so bicycles seem virtually non-existent (when I tried asking, the person laughed and said he thought there was only one or so). If you visit the island, please at least be careful of your shoes!

A Japanese inn, Teradaya, came to my rescue and the room had a washing stand and hair dryer. Plus plenty of space. Just 7,800 yen per night. Not exactly a steal maybe... But you can expect delicious meals and help with everything. The hospitality of the gentle father and mother will heal you.

Finally I go back to Tokyo. I was absent mindedly glancing at my mobile phone losing reception at the heliport...... "Is that Saeri?" the voice came it was the wife of S with whom I had enjoyed stargazing last night! ! ! "I thought I would send you off! Also, I brought rice balls" Tears of gratitude of 2016 again. A ball of fried rice with Ashitaba ...warm...both the fried rice and the island...warm...and moreover, delicious...

In Oshima, I had to listen to an endless story about UFOs related by the middle-aged male taxi driver, which left me boarding the jet boat feeling differently to the outward journey, but I had a better window seat this time, and while enjoying the waves, found myself back in Tokyo in no time.

Toshima, the island which has nothing, grew on me. "Toshima" is an island near and far. When I think the island exists quietly today as well, it's nothing short of a mystery to me. Did the time in the island as I perceived it really pass? Well, although I keep calling it the island with nothing, it is overflowing with indulgent time and superb kindness!!!